Uncovering the Natural Wonders of Mount Surprise and Einsleigh with a Gem-Digging Adventure at O'Briens Gemfields

When gold was discovered in the Palmer River in Cape York in 1872, Mount Surprise lost its status as Queensland’s most northern settlement. European settlement started in 1864 with Ezra Firth took up a land parcel and reportedly surprised an Aboriginal camp in the middle of a feast, thus how Mount Surprise got its name.

It was to the south of Mount Surprise that copper and gold was found way back in 1866. Many people flocked to the area to seek their fortune here and in the Gilbert River region to the west. By 1908 a single line railway reached the outstation and it became a hub for the western section of the tablelands with a telegraph station, several hotels, schools and police station. Originally the public wanted the line to go further west to Georgetown, but the Newcastle Range was too steep and costly to go over, eventually it went south to Einasleigh then west to Forsyth. When John Moffat initiated the rail line to Mount Surprise from Chillagoe in the north, it had a huge impact on the mining scene as the rail was cheaper and more reliable than the Afghan cameleers and bullock teams that often took weeks to make the journey. Not only did it take the ore away for processing, but it bought back supplies for the community and mining camps.

But only a few years later the ore was running out and cattle soon became the main transportable option, and decreasing to one service a week. Soon a proper road was built west to Georgetown, but floods damaged the rail line, and it closed in 1927. Surprisingly during WWIl, Mount Surprise played a very strategic role in communication to help prevent the Japanese invasion that was rumoured to happen.

Called No 53 Radar Station, this telecommunication link was opened on top of Mount Surprise ( also known as Radar Hill ) and provided communication between Townsville and the Torres Strait. On the road north to O’Briens Fossicking area, there is the old airstrip, a lone telegraph pole and sign acknowledging this piece of history.

In 1951 the old rail line was reconditioned and today a tourist train rattles along the line several times a week, where Mount Surprise plays a major stopover. The Gulf Savannah Lander train stops at Mount Surprise and its now the service base for the train.

The station area has had all the sheds restored and there’s a rail museum that anyone can spend time reading about the trials and tribulations from the early days. If you time it right you’ll see the Gulf Savannah Lander either depart or arrive at Mount Surprise.

Across the road from the rail park is the Mount Surprise Hotel built in 1910, which was one of two that was built to cope with the traffic when the town was busy.

Now I’m not a rock collector but I wanted to head 30km north to O’Briens fossicking area to try my luck and to explore more into the area. The fossicking area is on Mount Surprise Station and the owner has kindly set aside an area for camping and to let visitors head into designated areas to fossick for a variety of gems.

Back in the day, the area was extensively worked for Tin and gems were discarded, with the most sort after being Blue Topaz, Aqua-marine, Citrine and Smokey Quartz. These gems are the results of volcanic activity in the area, namely the Undara Volcano which erupted nearly 200,000 years ago and today it remains as one of the earths longest lava flows plus it has a massive cave system.

Not really knowing or understanding the geology of mining I did find a couple of little pointy stones, one being a clear Topaz and several small Smokey crystals. You need a fossicking permit to dig here and these are relatively cheap available online through the QLD Government website. There are limitations where you can dig at O’Brien’s but when you book in the caretaker is more than happy to give you a map and point you in the right direction.

To the south of Mount Surprise is Einasleigh which has been long inhabited by the Ewamian people. Originally called Copperfield the town experienced a mining boom when deposits of Copper and other minerals were found but because of isolation, lack of Copper demand, floods, droughts and then men left for the war effort, Copperfield population slowly dwindled away.

Officially surveyed in 1867, and it was renamed after the nearby Einasleigh River. The old Copper mine and smelter are listed on the Queensland Heritage register and is to the north of the pub.

Today, the Einasleigh pub is one of the last remaining buildings of the mining era and is a popular tourist attraction in the area. Just across the road is Copperfield Gorge that is was made from prehistoric lava flows from the Undara Volcanoes 60km away, over time the water has carved a path through the basalt to where it is today.

The Savannah Lander used to cross the gorge, but now stops nearby and buses transport visitors to the pub and gorge viewing area. The floods of 2025 moved the old timber trestle bridge to a point where it can’t be used until properly surveyed, floodwaters went over the top of the bridges three times during the 2025 wet season.

This area tucked in at the base of cape York and the Gulf of Carpentaria holds some fascinating natural and man made history all created by prehistoric volcanic activity. I only scratched the surface while exploring the area, but I think every traveller that passes through needs to spend a little time here, get off the beaten track and explore what once was.

WHERE

Mount Surprise is just under 300km west of Cairns in far north Queensland on the Gulf Development Road. It’s the perfect place to set up a base and to head 30km north to O’Briens Fossicking area or 40km south to Einasleigh and delve in rail and mining history. Tucked in at the base of Cape York and the Gulf, its a fascinating area to explore.

WHAT TO EXPECT

If your a fossicker, O’Briens fossicking area is a haven for rock collectors either seeking a fortune or just out there speccing the creeks. Gems such as Topaz, Aqua Marine and Crystals are common in the area. South at Einasleigh, it’s a great place to spend a few days exploring the gorges and if your lucky travel on the Savannah - Lander motor rail. Mount Surprise is a pleasant stop over for travellers but also a great base to set up for a few days.

OTHER INFO

The unofficial info centre in Mount Surprise is the Bedrock Caravan Park in Garnett Street, who can not only steer you in the right direction can offer a feed and camp spot out the back. At the Mount Surprise rail station there are history plaques, and rail paraphernalia in the sheds that visitors can freely explore. Up at O’Briens fossicking area, they offer great bush camping with basic facilities where you can head out each day to fossick your life away. There’s no need to book here as the camp ground is huge. To the south at Einasleigh, the best camping is at Silks campground, just a few minutes walk to the pub and Copperfield Gorge. Fossicking permits can be bought online at www.qld.gov.au website.