CROWDY BAY NP. Mid north coast. NSW.

The last time I spent time in the beautiful Crowdy Bay NP was just after the devastating fires that ripped through the north coast a few years ago. Today, the trees are coming back with vengeance, the heathlands are blooming and the animals have come back.

Crowdy Bay National Park is a hidden gem that lies an easy 4 hours north of Sydney on the mid north coast between Taree and Port Macquarie. Captain Cook sailed past in 1770 and spotted a group of Aboriginals on the headland and named it Crowded Head, over the years the name soon changed.

To the north he spotted three near identical mountains which he named The Three Brother Mountains to which he thought it was unique but the Birpai people had been calling them this for years. The Birpai people had an abundance of food in the lower rivers and forest areas where they fed on shell fish, oysters and cray’s, and in the forest areas there was Emu, Kangaroo and Turtle to provide a good source of protein. They knew when to move to the coast as they saw the movement of the Hairy Caterpillar which coincided with the annual Mullet run in the bay. Shell midden sites have been found and are now protected within the park, some dating back 6,000 years.

My trip started at Camden Haven up on North Brother Mountain where the views to the north were absolute stunning up the coast. Also known as Dooragan Mountain which translate to north in Birpai language, that’s now declared a National Park. This park lies within the ancestral lands of the Birpai people who view the mountains as culturally significant and where stories have been passed down for generations.

There are several walking tracks around the top of the mountain through rainforest pockets and to different lookouts. One in particular that looks to the south overlooking Crowdy Bay NP is the Don Johnson lookout. He was a passionate worker and was active in promoting protected areas and was behind the driving force to declare Crowdy Bay a National Park.

Heading south from Camden Haven into Crowdy you’ll find the first and most popular camping area, called Diamond Head which is popular with families with its formal amenities & walking tracks to Dunbogan Beach. Diamond Head Road cuts a path through Crowdy with a complex mix of littoral rainforests, coastal heathlands, salt-marshes and eucalypt forests.

During the destructive fires five years ago most of the park was totally wiped out, slowly the landscape has regenerated but there are still are signs where some trees may never re-grow. I did notice that since the fires there are more gates blocking some of the side access tracks, presuming it’s to protect the more fragile areas in the re-growth stage.

The next camping area along is Indian Head campground which is my go-to stopover with large grassed areas, basic facilities, fires are allowed and quite often the wildlife just hangs around enjoying the same space as the campers.

Indian Head has walking tracks with one out to the headland with stunning views along the coastline but also down to split rock and the bridge, but also to the historical Kylies Hut.

A timber slab hut was built in 1940 by a reclusive local farmer named Ernie Metcalfe, for Kylie Tennant as a writing retreat. Kylie fell in love with the area and with the story that surrounded old Ernie. She wrote many books from this hut including one on Ernie, called The Man On The headland. The hut was rebuilt after the fires but the original foundations can still be seen next to the new hut.

You don’t need a big 4wd for the roads through Crowdy as they are suitable for an AWD, they just get a little corrugated and dusty during high traffic times. The next camp area along is Kylie’s Beach which can get pretty busy during the holidays because of its direct beach access for walkers and 4wds. You’ll need a permit to drive on the beach here, and tides play a big part too as the sand can get pretty soft, when the tide is right you can drive all the way south on the beach to Crowdy Head.

Further south is the last campground called Crowdy Gap which is more National Park orientated with bollards and regimental campsites. They do provide cold outdoor showers, drop toilets and fires are permitted off the ground, all surrounded by coastal Banksia’s and Black Sheoak’s where you can smell the salt air and hear the crashing waves. This was once the site of an old dairy farm before it was declared a National Park in 1972. The whole area was privately owned with houses and gardens scattered throughout and there was even a bush racecourse on the western side of the road, which has now all but grown over.

Just seven kilometres away is the fishing village of Crowdy Head. It’s a sleepy little place these days with an eco resort, surf club and a takeaway shop. But sitting high on the headland above the harbour is Crowdy Lighthouse.

Built in 1878 to guide ships through the Manning River it was manned by a lone light keeper until full automation in 1972. It’s another great example of an early stone building that has stood the test of time through high winds, rain and the forces of mother nature. Nearby the foundations of the old lighthouse keepers cottage can still be seen.

The bay at Crowdy is well protected for the kids to take a dip and there is often some great snorkelling around the surrounding rocks. While exploring the park, keep man eye out for our endemic native species from Koala’s, the Echidna, Wallabies and Bandicoot’s as well as Black Cockatoo’s that feed on the nuts in the Sheoak’s trees plus you might even spot a White Belly Sea Eagle cruising the coastal strip.

It’s possible to explore all of these camp areas, Kylies Hut and Crowdy all in one day, but you need to ask yourself 'Whats more important, the journey or destination ?'. Crowdy Bay National Park is one of those parks that may not be very big in size, but holds a lot within.

WHERE IS CROWDY BAY NP

Crowdy Bay National Park is located 350km north of Sydney on the mid north coast of NSW.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Crowdy is the perfect coastal escape within earshot of Sydney where you have a choice of multiple campgrounds. Nature lovers will love this area where there are headland walking tracks, stunning vistas and an amazing coastline where you can fish or walk to your hearts content. The wildlife seems to love it to, where you’ll see wallabies, goannas roaming the camps and up high, plenty of coastal birds. The campgrounds have showers, bins and fires are allowed in season and can be booked online at https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/crowdy-bay-national-park