Exploring BINDARRI National Park: Waterfalls, Easy 4WD Tracks and Rich History in Coffs Harbour

Many people consider Coffs Harbour the 4wd capital of NSW, but there’s a more quieter and beautiful side away from the hardcore tracks, insane mud holes and hillclimbs that go on forever. Bindarri National Park just 20km out of Coffs is a 56 square km park that has a pretty special bio diversity with rare and endangered plants and animals but it also allows visitors to embrace the park through various avenues.

Heading west from Coffs through the stunning Orara Valley it’s easy to see why the early settlers established themselves past the coastal range. The area was settled around 1880 when loggers and gold prospectors hit the area looking for fortunes. Valued timber such as Red Cedar was in high demand back in the day and timber throughout this area was regarded as the best there was.

Gold was found in a multitude of locations around the Coffs Coast and according to records there were over 300 registered mines, but the rush only last 20 years as the gold dwindled out. Today there’s still a stack of mine relics and mine shafts around the area if you know where to look.

Originally the Orara Valley was settled to grow crops and breed livestock for the miners and new citizens to Coffs as the soil is some of the best on the coast. Places like Coramba, Dairyville and Nana Glen thrived in these times, today they are just beautiful places to live.

The drive out through the valley and past Dairyville crosses the Urumbilum River several times and is very popular with locals during the warmer months. The rivers in this area actually flow a hundred kilometres to the north  into the Clarence River catchment area and finally out to sea.

Leaving Dairyville Road and along Jersey Bull Road, you’ll head into the first stages of Bindarri and a day area beside Urumbilum River. The water is crystal clear and with virgin rainforest growing along its banks. If you have a close look around, there are Red Cedar logs and stumps decaying into the ground below the tall white ghost gums and the threatened Rusty Plum Tree.

This is one of our favourite spots to come and cool off in the height of summer when the cicadas are screaming out and the coastal beaches are full. Even in summer, the water here is cool, very cool as it flows down from the Tuckers Knob escarpment on its journey north.  

 Here at the day area and surrounding valley’s, its called Bindarray which is from the Gumbaynggirr traditional owners meaning ‘many creeks’. They have lived in the surrounding country and along the coast for many years.

The pristine waters in these creeks are home to many threatened species such as  Platypus, the Giant Panda Snail, the tiny Fishing Bat, Giant barred Frogs and many more. Back in 1993 Coffs Council had intentions of damming this waterway, thankfully it never happened and the dam was built elsewhere.

Pine Road heads up the escapement and is 4wd dry weather road as it winds its way up to the top of The Great Dividing Range. While not a long and strenuous drive the views halfway up show you just how ruggered the terrain is out here.

Bangalore Falls is a highlight of the area and from the car park its an easy 10 min walk to the viewing platform to sight the falls as they tumble over the rock ledges. I’ve been here when there’s big rains on and even before you can see the waterfall, the sound is deafening and as you get closer you can feel vibrations in the ground from the massive amount of water spilling over.

Back along Range Road you can also head to Urumbilum Falls where the cool nature of rainforest has given way to forests of Coachwood Trees, Hoop Pines and Cabbage Tree palms, if your lucky you might even see a Lyrebird or a long tail Pheasant shoot across the road.

By retracing your steps back along Range Road and joining onto Corfes Road you’ll end up just outside the beautiful little village of Ulong. There are no camping spots in Bindarri NP, but the Eastern Dorrigo Community Hall has a handful of camping sites available with shower and toilet facilities down beside Ulong Creek.

The village itself was established back in the 1880’s and was apparently larger than Coffs due to the logging activity in the region. A rail line ran once ran through the town but closed down just after the turn of the century due to landslips and expenses trying to keep it open. Known as the Glenreagh Mountain Rail line, there were many sidings, and bush paddock stops for the system, but only a couple of real stations. In Ulong the station can stands along with the concrete sign that was once a hive of activity.

In 1949 the Melody Theatre opened in Ulong and was popular for many years, hosting dances, weddings were held there and of course movies were shown. The timber building was a popular meeting place for many years and it even had fuel available out the front. These days the former grand building is closed off and in disrepair.

These days Ulong is a sleepy place and is known as The Village in the Valley where visitors often make the weekend trek through Ulong to explore further afield or to visit the Ulong Cafe which is the hub of the area. They offer some of the best coffee and meals this side of the range but also offer for free maps and advice on local attractions, like swimming holes, waterfalls and tourist drives. Family owned and operated, the Ulong General Store and Cafe in the Valley also offer a B&B accommodation for those wanting to explore the area but stay in luxury accommodation.

Heading back down the mountain to Coffs from Ulong along Eastern Dorrigo Way, it’s a beautiful sealed road twisting and winding its way past massive White Gums and where steep drop offs are covered with rainforest vines and palms.

A side option is to shoot into Lowanna and have a look at the restored rail station on the old Glenreagh Mountain Rail Line. Beautifully restored back to its former glory it’s a step back in time.

Down the bottom the historic village of Coramba, established in 1880, was the centre of the goldfields and was one of the earliest settlements on the Coffs Coast. There is a heritage walk around the village and the meaning of Coramba to the local Gumbaynggirr people is, ‘sight of the sea’. One of the main attractions for Coramba is the old pub which is the third building where the pub is now. First built in 1895 it soon became a two story building but was destroyed by fire in 1940 and the current art deco one was built.

Now while Bindarri NP doesn’t have wild 4wd tracks like other forests of the Coffs Coast does, it’s a beautiful and serene place to spend a day or two. The hinterland of the is popular with locals who like to get away back to nature to spend time in the hills exploring.

Where is Bindarri NP

Bindarri is one of the many National parks that make the Coffs Harbour hinterland special. Just a short drive west of Coffs, you’ll be in the park surrounded by stunning rainforest areas and old growth forests, cut through by crystal clear creeks and many waterfalls. The towns of Coramba and Ulong provide stopovers for amazing food and coffee experiences. Expect to do a good 150km on the Bindarri escarpment loop drive. Fuel up before leaving Coffs. Ulong is 35km west of Coffs Harbour and Bindarri NP is just 25km west of Coffs.  

What to see and do

National parks have set aside this pocket of rainforest that extends up into the hinterland for visitors to experience some of the most stunning rainforest areas along the north coast. With scenic views, walking trails and easy 4wd tracks it’s a great day out. Camping is available at the Eastern Dorrigo Community Hall in Ulong on the outskirts of Bindarri on top of the range. There are a multitude of waterfalls and swimming holes for the warmer months to laze in and several day picnic areas to enjoy. Koloa’s, Eastern Quolls, Platypus and plenty of birds call Bindarri NP their home. For more information jump onto the NPWS website and search for Bindarri NP, or for camping and local knowledge, call Ulong shop on 0266 545320.