Discovering Walcha Waterfalls: Ultimate Guide to 4WD Tracks and Riverside Camping
- Woolgoolgaoffroad
- 2 hours ago
- 7 min read
I’ve always wanted to explore the Walcha area and see what explorer John Oxley was so excited about when he saw flowing rivers cutting through gorges and the rich mix of good pastures on the New England Tablelands. Starting my trip in the town of Walcha where the elevation is just over 1000m high and where the weather an change in a snap, I explored the towns heritage walking trail visiting some of the many old buildings dating back to the late 1860’s and the open air sculptures around the towns limits.
On the north side of town there’s a pioneer village and museum where visitors can see a range of buildings and collections from different eras. Along side a complex range of artefacts they also house a Tiger Moth Aircraft that was used in the district that was originally built for pilot training in the 1940’s.
In the heart of town there’s also the Big Black Shed to wander around in, where it’s jammed packed with antiques, relics and modern day items for sale.
More info on the Big Black Shed can be found here ---- https://www.visitnsw.com/destinations/country-nsw/armidale-area/walcha/attractions/thebigblackbuilding
After a few hours around town, I headed 20km east to explore the waterfalls that this area is known for, namely Apsley and Tia Falls. Apsley Falls is where the Walcha plateau meets the ruggered Apsley - Macleay gorge system, where the river continues east and finally meets up with the Macleay River. There’s cheap camping at the falls but must be booked online through the NPWS website, walking trails lead you around the top of the gorge to different viewing areas and for the fit crew, there’s a hike to the base of the falls.
Just down the road is Tia Falls where there’s cheap NP camping, which is a great base to set off from if you want to complete the hiking trail loop to the base of the gorge and back. Interesting fact is that the area below both these falls are considered to be dry rainforest which survive in the deep gorges surviving on the moisture provided by the waterfalls in the spray zone, the area below the falls is like a giant sponge soaking up and slowly releasing moisture. Oxley Wild Rivers NP protects the largest reserved area of dry rainforests in NSW, covering 10,500 hectares. It was great being able to discover Walcha waterfalls.
With the tourist trail out of the way, I headed across the Oxley Highway and into Mummel Gulf National Park for the first of my overnight camps at New Country Swamp. There’s 5 designated areas beside the swamp which is a rare montane peatland, flowing into Numble Creek. The swamp lies at 1200 metres of elevation, and the forest includes snow gums, mountain ribbon gum and banksia, it’s quiet place and you may see wildlife and many birds.
Cedar-getters found quality trees and this country was heavily logged at the turn of the century. Small scale mining took place, and cattle were allowed to graze in the forest, then in 1992, forest defenders set up camp nearby and protested against the destruction of old growth forest, and the loss of wildlife and biodiversity that normally follows.
They were successful and today this country is protected as Mummel Gulf National Park with much of it a declared wilderness. From the campsite, there’s a pleasant stroll through the forest past Snow Gums with a view over the swamp towards the campsite, the track continues to Mummel Gulf lookout, overlooking the deep forested valley of the Mummel River, and on a clear day see the top of Barrington Mountains.
After exploring the waterfalls and Mummel Gulf I headed out to the western side of Oxley Wild Rivers National park, heading back through Walcha along Moona Plains road and towards Budds Mare. My goal was to camp in the remote gorge of Riverside on the Apsley River, but before leaving phone service, it’s necessary to book online via NPWS website, as there are limited sites and a gate code is needed to access the last stretch of the 4wd track into the gorge.
Budds Mare is right on top of an escarpment with unrelentless views into some serious steep and ruggered gorge country.
For those without a 4wd or haven’t the gate code, it’s possible to camp at Budds Mare, the added bonus are the new facilities, timber shelter with fireplace for the cooler months and there’s an easy walk to Paradise Rocks Lookout where you can view Riverside and the Apsley River cutting a path through the landscape.
It’s only six kilometres down to Riverside Camping area, but the atmosphere surrounding the landscape and narrow track down is something I’d compare to driving through the Victorian High Country where the roads seem to drop off into the abyss.
There’s some pretty serious switchbacks on the narrow and steep track and it’s easy to see why trailers are banned. National Parks have setup Riverside with some pretty amazing camp sites and day areas.
Explorer John Oxley camped down here on the river in September of 1818, then headed east and towards the Tia Valley eventually arriving at Port Macquarie in early October of the same year. The name Riverside comes from a house that was built in 1891 where todays camp area is, which was part of Moona Plains Station. There were several slab built, shingled roofed dwellings made for the stockman working down off the tableland. Unfortunately fires ripped through around 1930 and destroyed the huts, but old farm relics can be found along side of the remains of a stone chimney.
In the 1980’s, plans were underway to dam the Apsley River to supply a nearby hydroelectric plant, and the steep road into Riverside was constructed to install the river gauging station. Ironically the NSW minister at the time and his wife ( Neville & Jill Wran ) spent three days hiking the Apsley River, and was so impressed that he included this gorge in the 127,000 ha gazetted for the new Oxley Wild River NP.
Campers can enjoy swimming in the nearby Apsley River, fish for wild Bass that head downstream on an epic pilgrimage to spawn and return every year. Once the sun goes down the nights are quiet and where the nocturnal creatures venture out. The Park is included in the listing of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage area, for landforms stretching back when Australia was connected to Antarctica, 40 million years ago.
The protection of this National Park with its wild natural areas not only preserve the lives of countless unique lifeforms, but also ensures that we can continue to enjoy opportunities and immerse in wild landscapes. After tens of millions of years without interference, and where the wild river has clawed out deep valleys along the eastern flank of the great divide, the Apsley River whispers to us of something profoundly ancient and beautiful.
WHERE IS WALCHA
Walcha is 180km west of Port Macquarie and a little over 480km N-NW of Sydney in the New England High Country, at the intersection of the Oxley Highway and Thunderbolts Way. Surrounded by National Parks where waterfalls spill over in to wild rivers and thread through ruggered gorges on a journey to the coast. Walcha is the oldest colonial settlement in the New England region known for its natural beauty, rich history and where the town has old world charm.
WHATS IN THE REGION
There’s a multitude of areas to explore in the Walcha region including camping on the Apsley River, a plethora of hiking trails into gorges and waterfalls, exploring the towns heritage and museums through to the 4wd touring trails.
OTHER INFO
The New England Tablelands is around 1000m above sea level and there’s often several weather conditions in one day. The winters are cold with frost and often a covering of snow, and in summer they can be stinking hot but with cold nights, so be prepared for anything. Walcha does have a tourist info centre ( 29w Fitzroy St ) and can help with what’s on in the district. To camp at Riverside in the Wild Oxley NP you’ll need to book online through NPWS website, when you pay you’ll also get a code for gate access. Other camp selections in the area include Tia and Apsley Falls and the New Country area at Mummel Gulf NP, also need to book online. Walcha is a busy hub where you’ll find all services and facilities.
EXPLORER JOHN OXLEY
Explorer and surveyor-general John William Oxley played a huge and important part in the exploration to open up large parts of eastern Australia and also helped open up parts of Tasmania ( known then as Van Diemens Land ). Born in England he arrived on our shores in 1802 and was immediately set to work as a coastal surveyor for a few years before sailing to Van Diemens land, then back to Sydney where he was granted land parole. He was soon appointed surveyor- general of NSW and began his exploration travels across the eastern seaboard between Bathurst and up to Port Macquarie on the mid north coast.
In search of new farming lands beyond the Hunter Valley, he headed north and climbed the steep rugged ranges, traversed from west to east over the southern end of the tablelands he had discovered, today It’s known as the New England Tablelands. In September 1818, Oxley and his expedition camped by a waterhole on the Apsley River (named after Lord Apsley) south of the current township of Walcha, he was the first ‘official’ European to the district as far as anyone knew. Oxley wrote of this new found country in his journal-
Quote - ‘the finest open country, or rather park, imaginable’. A country of ‘running waters; on every hill a spring and in every valley a rivulet’ - unquote.
Prior to Oxley coming to the area the Dunghetti people lived in the area for around 6000 years, the tablelands was a meeting place and where to trade goods. In winter the Dunghetti people headed east into the gorges where there was plenty to eat and the weather was warmer.
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